There are many extended walks in the UK, some just as scenic and varied as the Coast to Coast Walk. None, however, have its sociability: the camaraderie between hikers, from diverse ages, backgrounds and nationalities, is beguiling and addictive. The mix is magical. My third crossing was just as enjoyable as the previous two.
Despite the multiple crossings the bug has not yet been laid to rest. I’ll be back for another go before I finally pop my clogs (all being well), but not just yet awhile.
The stages were about right.
The Borrowdale to Patterdale section could be walked in one day, but why rush through the Lakes? It’s much too good.
On a future attempt I would consider adding an extra day between Patterdale and Kirkby Stephen, as I’d done on the earlier walks, if time permitted (Patterdale – Bampton Grange – Orton – Kirkby Stephen). The chosen itinerary, although tiring, wasn’t too demanding though.
The master stroke was the overnight at St. Giles Farm, near Catterick Bridge. I’d no compelling reason to stay at Richmond, fascinating as it is. By walking through the town I equalised what would otherwise have been an overly short leg from Reeth, followed by a near marathon day to Ingleby Cross.
The other route conundrum lies between Ingleby Cross and Eskdale. The accommodation opportunities dictate days of disparate length: whether to stop near Clay Bank Top or press on to the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge?
Of the Clay Bank alternatives (Urra, Chop Gate or Great Broughton) Urra demands the least diversion from the established route, without disrupting the flow of the walk. Maltkiln House is also a very good B&B. The disadvantages, however, are the two longish days to Robin Hoods Bay (but at this point of the proceedings the extra miles come easily).
Pressing on to the Lion Inn involves rushing the delectable Cleveland Hills escarpment, but has the reward of well-spaced walks to the coast. Pay your money and take you choice…
Of the B&Bs all were good in their individual ways and there’s nowhere I wouldn’t happily stay again. Of special note are the aforementioned St Giles Farm and Maltkiln House, together with Gillercombe at Rosthwaite and Brookfield House at Shap.
I used the Coast to Coast Packhorse service and found them to be quietly efficient and well worth the modest cost. Apart from a couple of particularly short days, my bag beat me to the B&B.
I was pleased with my physical performance: no back or foot problems of note and all the walks were well within my reserves of stamina and strength. Don’t rely on the exercise for long-term weight loss though. Even if you can resist the daily breakfast fry-ups the enhanced appetite persists well beyond the boots being ditched: any modest loss is quickly squandered in the following weeks of indolence.
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