(Walking Distance: 21 miles)
Crosby Ravensworth Fell
Orton and the Howgills
Rayseat Pike
Smardale Bridge
Four Americans (one half of the younger couple perhaps being a child of the senior pair) had arrived at Brookfield at around 19:00hrs last night. They were the only other guests and were walking to Ravenstonedale today, but were going all the way to Keld the next. They seemed in good spirits but one commented, “It’s a shame England’s excess of water can’t be exported to California”. We do seem to have a surplus this year…again.
The breakfast was by far the best to date: porridge, omelette and fresh fruit.
I was away by 08:45hrs, in dry, cloudy weather, taking the track at the side of Brookfield, under the main west coast railway line, to regain the route at the M6 footbridge. Shap is at about the one third along the C2C. Together with the road and railway, the Shapfell lime works and associated quarry completes the unholy trinity of the everyday and humdrum; a now accustomed tranquillity is regained at Oddendale.
Today’s was an enjoyable hike in perfect walking weather: dry, warm, but not too hot or humid. The underfoot conditions were still wet, however. I’ve heard and read others’ opinions that this section is tedious and boring. How could that possibly be with the immense vistas back to the Lakes and over to the Howgills, Wild Boar Fell and Cross Fell and the North Pennines? All that and stone circles too…
I met up with the Aussies before Oddendale and we walked together for the remainder of the day. At some point near Robin Hood’s Grave I was expounding on the increased dangers of accidents on less challenging ground, where concentration might wane: on cue, I slipped, falling on my bum, landing in an inelegant heap; my only fall of the walk.
In the planning stage I’d considered following an approximation of Wainwright’s original 1972 route over Beacon Hill, Great Aisby Scar and Castle Folds to Sunbiggin Tarn; there taking a course around the north of the tarn to Rayseat Pike and along to the current standard route at Ewefell Mire. Below Beacon Hill, however, we opted for the usual way, bypassing Orton and using soggy field paths to Sunbiggin Tarn. It was too long a walk to Kirkby Stephen to risk reasonable progress on uncharted ground.
We met up with the Geezers and walked together to the Gamelands stone circle where we stopped for a break. Later, for the first time, we met a father and son; an agreeable, if somewhat reserved pair, from near Whitby.
At the tarn we became a little bit more adventurous, opting to forsake the long road walk for Wainwright’s original route across the moor. The Geezers, after some discussion, followed us around the tarn, but wandered off on a different bearing into the mushy wilderness. If there was a path in Wainwright’s time it isn’t there now – or at least we didn’t find it. The going wasn’t too bad though and, reaching the prominent long cairn at Rayseat Pike, a faint trod materialised.
On rejoining the standard route, at the crossing of the Mazon Wath Lane, the Geezers were storming down the hill towards us. I’ve still not fathomed how they came to be walking down the lane from the north, when they were last seen heading south at Sunbiggin.
There’s a trap after Bents Farm: the route leaves the right of way, which continues on to Crosby Garrett. We nearly fell in. The Whitby Duo were walking a couple of hundred yards ahead and missed the turnoff to Smardale. Deep in conversation we trotted along the same route. Fortunately, the previously navigationally challenged Geezers were close behind and whistled us back on course; the Duo were less lucky and went seriously off route – the last thing needed on an already long day.
We had a late lunch at the wonderful Packhorse Bridge at Smardale, set in a secluded valley traversed only by paths and a long abandoned railway and surrounded by ancient mounds and earthworks.
Once atop Smardale Fell the cairns on tomorrow’s first objective of Nine Standards Rigg were clearly visible. The walk down to Kirkby Stephen was long but easy in pleasant surroundings, enlivened by an enormous, if placid, bull in a pasture. I felt Peter pushed his luck when he advanced towards it, camera in hand, for a close-up.
We arrived in Kirkby Stephen at 17:15hrs after a walk usually given as 21 miles: the deviation to Rayseat Pike added to the quality and variety of the day and might have knocked a mile off that distance, but with little saving in time and the cost of extra effort. I was pleased to find myself only mildly footsore, in good spirits and blister free.
My accommodation at Redmayne was in a beautiful, rambling old house. Whilst the welcome felt a little distant and remote, the facilities were good: the room was large and comfortable and tea, with excellent cake, materialised in the lounge.
I met the Aussies in the Black Bull for a very good supper: the beer looked good too. The pub was deservedly busy with both walkers and civilians. I half noticed a group of perhaps eight or ten, mainly young people, sat on one side of the room. They were enjoying an easy rapport, chatting and laughing. One was a thin, striking young woman, with vaguely south European looks. If I paid them any attention at all I assumed they were on some sort of Outward Bound course.
Dad’s Army were in the bar with a chap who’d been walking with his dog. The dog had had to retire with blisters after being ferried by a compliant, non-walking, spouse to the Vet at Penrith. She’s driven over from South Yorkshire for the privilege.
Dad’s Army had got to Shap without undue incident the previous day. I think it was they that confirmed that the Canadian ladies arrived safely at Shap after walking over the High Street ridge, but were very late and had got a taxi from Burnbanks. The ladies had only intended walking to Orton today: pity we’d never got round to exchanging email addresses, I’d like to know how they fared later.
After a long but satisfying walk I retired to bed shortly after ten.
Accommodation:
Redmayne House
Silver Street
Kirkby Stephen
Cumbria
CA17 4RB
017683 71441
Redmayne is a comfortable stop in a beautiful Georgian House. The rooms were large and comfortable and the food was fine.
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment